28^th July

Today’s drive took us away from the hills for a while and into sunflower country. Weird how they turn their faces to the sun!! It’s so hot today so we have chosen a site with a pool. Aptly named Audinac-les-Bains, mock roman façade but pretty cool in the shade.

29^th July

Heading for Carcassonne today. Bought some good wine from our chosen Passion in Villesiscle, just outside Bram.

30^th July

Have spent the day mooching around Carcassonne. Just WOW!! Too hot to stay for the Jousting but there in spirit.

Stopping in Villegly, another site, another pool! And free WiFi yahoo!!

31^st July

Heading towards the Camargue. Not sure if we will wild camp tonight. Its getting busier with the French now on holiday too.

22nd July
Travelled down the Dordogne today and stopped at Bergerac. Nice Municipal site on the river. Nice old VW camper pulled in next to us. Saw many a Castle today. This area is so picturesque you can understand why so many people tour here.


23rd July
Wandered around Bergerac for a while and then headed west again. So hot today! Thought we would make a dash for the coast and treat ourselves to an evening swim in the Atlantic. Arrived in Biscarrosse at around 6.30 and its still 34 degrees outside.
This is surfers heaven, the beach goes all the way to Spain. (100K or so!) Found a site in the woods. This is the first area we have found where you cannot camp wild. So the sites are a bit commercial and very packed.


24th July
Woke up bitten to death. Mozzie heaven, my hell. It`s our Kerri`s Birthday. Phoned her early and had a good chat. Miss Kerri and Chris loads! Decided we had had enough of the woods and headed inland again towards the Pyrenees. These pine forests go on for miles. Found a lovely church with unusual bell tower. Stopped in Mugron. The centre of Foir Gras country. The Madam of the passion we are staying in was so eager for us to taste hers. Principles lost out of politeness, but there`s no way i`m buying any!! (Actually tastes gross so I won`t be tempted to eat it again!) Bought some duck stew and some rough pate. Still hot so played Boule (Kevs winning 8 to 0, so far!)


25th July
Stopped just short of Lourdes as the passion we wanted to stay in was unable to take us. Poueyferre looked nice from the site but we are too hot for anything other than a swim!! The sat nav sent us down some tiny roads again today. There are new houses being built all over the place with the most amazing views.

26th July
Visited Lourdes. For a non believer, this place has an awesome presence. Surrounded by the Pyrenees, nestling in a valley with a roaring river. The best bit for me was the acoustics in the round chapel. People were humming notes in harmony. Amazing noise.



Went off in search of the Lama farm we wanted to stay in yesterday. It is really high up in the mountains, almost in Spain. We were a bit early to stop so headed on up the valley to see the Lake. There is a great Municipal site on the lake shore. Going to stay here instead and do some biking in the morning. Tonight we are going to utilise
the fire pit provided to cook dinner.

27th July
Last night proved to be really ugh worthy. We set a roaring fire and gazed at the flames.

Whilst out walking and cycling we have gathered today’s fire wood. We were only 5 or 6 Kilometres from Spain. Seems a bit near but much too far for unfit Smith’s!

15^th July

Off again we travel north down the Loire, stop for some castle shots and then over some more hills where we find yet some more lakes. Lac du Aubusson was our next pitch, where we planned our next move.

16^th July

We decide to head for the hills and turn west again towards Clermont Ferrand the Puy de Dome looming in the distance. Awesome!! We have to cross a small mountain range here and Elvis holds up a dream (if only at 20mph up hill in 2^nd). I’m so delighted we have reached the top and I can now change gear and accelerate, (after politely pulling in to let the conga line following me, cursing, pass) that I miss the turn off for the mountain and trundle blissfully on. Too far to double back today, we stop in a site in Tauves. After a cooling dip in the pool, we eat and look upon the mountain range, golden in the sunset and dream of a walk tomorrow.

17^th July

Wake up to a dismal, wet day with no sign of last nights mountains. Hayho! Its time we learnt how to play Boule anyway!

18^th July

We set off fairly early, and drive back towards Mont Dome, take a detour around La Bourboulle and Mont Dore, and finish up at a ski resort. Our feet itching to get out and walk for a while we pull over with lots of other campers. Sarnies in bag, we head off up the valley. We find the source of the Dor, nestled into the valley amongst flowers and mountain cattle. UP AND UP AND UP!!! 3 hours later, very worst for wear, we reach the top of the ridge and look up….to more ridges and peaks. Not today! With legs screaming we descend thankfully to the luxury of Elvis. Eyes right at the camper and what do we see!! A Cable car!!!!!

19^th July

We are both hardly able to walk today so we take the cable car just to look around. No we just couldn’t stop at that! The top looked so close! And they had planked stairs up so it seemed rude not to try. I give up with only 200ft or so to go (not too bad when you are scared of heights, and the edge was really just a cliff now). The intrepid Kev goes forth on his own. You can see Mont Blanc from up there, as well as most of the rest of France! And behold the source of the Dogne. Back at the bottom near the camper they meet and become the Dordogne.

It’s still only Lunch time, well French lunchtime so we head off again. We head west again to trace the river to the sea. We stop at Vendes at a municipal site of the three rivers. Similar to Watersmeet with high wooded hills and much water!

20^th July
Stayed put today as legs don’t work!! What more could we want. We have good food, wine and Kevs guitar. And the sun!!!

21^st July

Travelled through some fantastic scenery today (and some tiny roads!) along the Dordogne valley. Now in Martel. A very old town with gothic houses. We are miles from any McDonalds so won`t be able to update the blog till Bergerac. Good food to be had tonight and much wine.

Later 11^th July

Our next passion is a posh old house with independent vineyard. Alas the thunderstorms and hail stones keep us in. The village of Flurie is the centre for many rides but mostly up hill!

12^th July

Off into the hills today, put an aire into the satnav and off we went. Up, up, and away into the woods. Only 2K from the aire and it sends us down a deer track. Sticking to the bigger roads (still 1 track but no grass) we descend again to a village called St Etienne la Varenne. The aire here is great. Free electric, water and services for all waste. Shortly after we arrive the bells go mental and announce the start of a wedding. Off to find a bar out of the way (there is only one) we find it is his first day of opening. He is so pleased not only wedding party but tourists too.

13^th July

After an overload of grapes we decide to head out into the hills for the Loire Valley.

What a difference, we could be in Devon. The first hedges we had seen since we left.

We are celebrating our first 1000 miles and crack open our champagne with our roast duck dinner. Nice camp site by the river is home for 2 nights as its Bastille Day tomorrow most villages barricaded for the fetes and boule competitions so no point in trying to drive.

14^th July

Bike riding along the loire c`est Magnifique. Very little traffic. Perfect!! Sun finally came out! Kev looks like a pregnant lobster. LOL

5^th July

Today we have arrived at another Passion, that of Michel Marcoult in Barbonne Fayel. After sampling his selection of fine champagnes we plumped for 2 of his best and set about our evening routine whilst waiting for our purchases to chill. Alas it takes a long time so our bottles are still unopened. C`est la vie! We had to settle for Vin Rouge and farm cider as we watched the amazing sunset over the vineyard.

6^th July

We have arrived at the Lakes of Aube. The Passion here is a Pizza Restaurant so we decide to wild camp next to the Lac du Temple. Some really nice cycle rides joining the lakes, but no real places to pull over amongst the trees.

7^th July

Next stop Troyes with its beautiful old houses and many churches. Unfortunately it is Monday and all museums are closed. The municipal site here is good and close to the centre (about 20 mins walk) with food shops close by. Spotted a fantastic Citroen camper, over 28 years old, here are a couple of pics.

8th - 9th July

So into week 2 and we travel to Lac du Marcenay, a few miles East of Auxerre, and camp at Camping Le Grebe right by the lake. Really good forest cycling here and many small villages within easy riding distance along very quiet roads. Plenty of history, and lots of vineyards. Total mileage in France is now 760. We are going to drink one of our bottles of Champers at the 1000 mile mark.

11^th July

Mileage is 860, weather is RAINING!!!!

Spent last night on a Passion site, a lovely vineyard in the middle of Burgundy, vines for as far as the eye can see. Decided to eat out, found a lovely little restaurant, and spent slightly too much money (70 euros), on a fantastic meal and a VERY nice bottle of red…

There is something to be said for quaffing red wine in a restaurant, when you can see the Domain it was made in literally across the street. We are going to carry on down into the Rhone valley today, so watch this space… pics to follow

Champagne country...

Hey hey hey,

so, thanks to the purveyors of the Big Mac (Royale over here) we can update the blog. We have now done 570 miles in La Belle France. We stayed Weds nite on a lovely farm, in a place called Concerveux, part of the France Passion scheme. Very nice people, and very nice farm cider...hic...

It was really a lovely farm, and the stay was completely free.
We then headed South-ish, and ended up in a place called Eperney, which is in the Marne Valley, and is the centre of the Champagne industry. There are vineyards and champagne makers literally everywhere, the big boys such as Verve Cliquot, Moet, etc, as well as hundreds of small independent growers and producers, its still expensive tho. Quite by chance we saw a sign for a municipal camp site, so we checked it out, and it was great, so we parked up and stayed for 2 nights....we even went bike riding along the River Marne.


Just to cap things off, we discovered a small supermarket selling one of our fave red wines for 6 euros a gallon...needless to say I have a head ache.
Well, the Royale with bacon and cheese is finit, and so is the beer. We are now off in search of a compatible gas bottle for Elvis. We will post again with more pics as soon as we can...watch this space...